Description

SRAM MRX Comp Micro Twist Shifter

SRAM's MRX Comp Twist Shifters are simple to use and offer solid shifting and reliable construction. They shift a SRAM or Shimano front derailleur. These shifters are indexed to shift three gears, and feature micro-adjustments for perfect front derailleur alignment.

SRAM MRX Comp twist shifter sets, compatible with Shimano and SRAM MRX rear derailleurs
All sets include cables and friction front shifters; housing sold separately
Cables are replaced without removing shifters
Rear shifters are compatible with Shimano and SRAM DiRT derailleurs
SRAM front shifters work with all major brands of front derailleurs
Grips and end caps are not included

Perfect fit on a Vintage restore

"I used these when restoring an old Fuji S10-S for a friend. They worked perfectly with the vintage Sun Tour deraillers."

— JOHN P. (5/5)

Cambria is the best. Good

"Cambria is the best. Good deal, smooth transaction, excellent communication. Will return for sure."

— bob h. (5/5)

I like the new shifters.

"I like the new shifters."

— Kathryn R. (5/5)

Great product and price

"Part was an exact fit and works perfectly"

— Abdelmunem U. (5/5)

Inexpensive and durable product

"I have been using GripShift MRX exclusively for about 20 years. I can recall only one shifter failure. I have never liked RapidFire (lever and trigger shifters); they require awkward thumb motion. One friend told me that twist shifters are a must for her because RapidFire aggravates her arthritis. For those who ride in cold climates, note that RapidFire is almost impossible to use with mittens. I prefer the earlier MRX design, where the numbers were on the rotating part of the shifter, but I don't see a difference in build quality or durability. I have not tried MicroShift twist shifters, which mimic the earlier MRX. Installation is easy, but adjusting the front derailleur can require some trial and error. SRAM's instructions don't address these adjustments, instead recommending instructions for the derailleur. My procedure, based mostly on Shimano's recommendations, is: 1. Shift to the innermost chainwheel and cog. Adjust the low limit screw so that the inner cage plate has just enough clearance not to rub the chain. You may need to relax this setting later in the process, but not so much as to throw the chain. 2. If you have a section of bare cable, leave the shifter on 1 (for the granny gear) and pull the cable firmly to move the chain to the largest chainwheel and against the limit stop (protecting your fingers with a rag or gloves). Set the high limit screw so that the chain shifts easily to the largest chainwheel but does not throw beyond it. Limit screw adjustments should now be correct. 3. Shift to the middle chainwheel and largest cog. Adjust cable tension so that the inner cage plate does just clears the chain. 4. Test the shifting. Between the granny gear and middle ring, the shifter moves four click stops. Between the middle and largest ring, it's three click stops. Check that the chain drops easily from the middle ring to the granny gear; if the chain throws off, the low limit setting is too loose. Then, check that the chain shifts easily to the largest ring; if it doesn't, the high limit setting may be too tight, or cable tension may be excessive. It may require some trial and error to get the numbers on the shifter to match up with the arrows. You may need slight adjustments to limit screws or cable tension. Some earlier models allowed easier cable changes because they had a removable hatch to help thread the new cable through the shifter. SRAM claims that the shifter does not have to be removed or disassembled, but I've found that the contrary is usually true. You have a fighting chance if your new cables have a soft material applied to the ends (SRAM cables usually do), but if that doesn't work, try this: 1. Shift to the smallest chainwheel and smallest cog. Remove the grips and set aside the plastic washers just outboard of the shifter. Remove the shifter and pull away the rotating section; be careful not to lose the metal spring, but if it falls out or gets out of position, it's obvious how it goes back in. 2. With the shifter separated, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the gray triangular hatch. With that out of the way, it's easy to thread a new cable through the shifter. Replace the hatch, slide the moving part of the shifter into the fixed piece, then reinstall the shifter, washers and grips.If the shifter sections do not fit snugly together, the metal spring may need to be repositioned. The barrel adjusters are easy to reach while riding. On-the-fly cable tension adjustments are a snap."

— Roland F. (5/5)

Good Quality Shifters

"The shifters are great. I installed them on the bike with no problems. They work smoothly & correctly. Good quality product. My only complaint is that no cable end caps were included, even though the shifters included the cables."

— Robert D. (5/5)

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SRAM MRX Comp Micro Twist Shifter